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Custom PC - My first time. O.o Help PLZ 20 replies
Im gonna build a Custom PC just because it's cheaper and I get a better buy. And I can improve it. Products little backwards for pickin.
I'm going to be using 3DSMAX for my schooling at end of december and I want something that can handle all the rendering and animation. Aswell as some kickass games.
I just wanna know if any of you guys got any ideas. I'll be posting this on PC forum somewhere see other thoughts.
Im willing to spend 1400 - 1600 on it.
So far what I picked comes to $1511 with shipping and taxes.
These are just things I picked from Tigerdirect.ca which is paypal implemented and only costs me 40 dollars to ship to me.
I just wanna know if I'm making any mistakes.
Am I missing anything? O.o
I'll be running off my 42" led, through hdmi... if thats gonna be a problem...?
Heres the stuff -
ULT40450 ::Ultra ULT40450 Power Supply Vibration Dampener - Standard ATX, Silicone Material(0.45 lbs)
$5.99
A406-0100 ::XION XON-1000P14F ATX Power Supply - 1000W, 140mm Blue LED Fan, SLI Ready, CrossFire Ready, 6x +12V Rails(6.8 lbs)
$109.99
M17-7302 ::Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium GFC-02050 Operating System Software - 64bit, DVD(0.5 lbs)
// Heard windows 8 has problems and sucks..
So I go with Windows 7, should I go pro?
$99.99
E145-0662 ::EVGA Geforce GTX 660 Ti 02G-P4-3662-KR Video Card - 2GB, GDDR5, PCI-Express 3.0(x16), 1x Dual-link DVI-I, 1x Dual-link DVI-D, 1x DisplayPort, 1x HDMI, DirectX 11, SLI Ready, Superclocked(2.35 lbs)
$299.97
$20.00 Mail-in Rebate
T24-9901 ::Toshiba HDKPC03 DT01ACA100 1TB Hard Drive - 1TB, 7200 RPM, SATA, 3.5" (1.2 lbs)
// I want SSD drives, just so expensive I will get SSD in the future. Or is it better to go SSD? I know its way better, just not as much space in price. I'm saving well over $200 going with this.
$79.97
$10.00 Mail-in Rebate
K24-2220 ::Kingston HyperX Blu KHX1600C10D3B1K2/16G 16GB Desktop Memory Module Kit - DDR3, 1600MHz, 2x8GB, CL10, 240 Pin, DIMM(0.1 lbs)
// The mother board holds 4 slots, so I can add in future.
$69.97
M452-8420 ::MSI Z77A-G45 Intel 7 Series Motherboard - ATX, Socket H2 (LGA1155), Intel Z77 Express, 2667MHz DDR3 (O.C.), SATA III (6Gb/s), RAID, 8-CH Audio, Gigabit LAN, USB 3.0, PCIe 3.0, SLI/CrossFireX Ready(2.45 lbs)
$129.97
$10.00 Mail-in Rebate
I69-3770K ::Intel Core i7-3770K BX80667i73770K Processor - Quad Core, 8MB L3 Cache, 3.50GHz (3.90GHz Max Turbo), Socket H2 (LGA1155), 77W, Fan, Unlocked, Retail(0.85 lbs)
$367.99
C283-1197 ::Cooler Master V8 CPU Fan - Socket 1366/775/AM2/AM2+,1156, AM3 120mm Fan, Modular Aluminum Fins(3.35 lbs)
$68.99
C283-1187 ::Cooler Master RC-932-KKN5-GP HAF 932 Advance Full Tower Case - ATX, Black, SuperSpeed USB 3.0(35.35 lbs)
$172.99
I'm going to be using 3DSMAX for my schooling at end of december and I want something that can handle all the rendering and animation. Aswell as some kickass games.
I just wanna know if any of you guys got any ideas. I'll be posting this on PC forum somewhere see other thoughts.
Im willing to spend 1400 - 1600 on it.
So far what I picked comes to $1511 with shipping and taxes.
These are just things I picked from Tigerdirect.ca which is paypal implemented and only costs me 40 dollars to ship to me.
I just wanna know if I'm making any mistakes.
Am I missing anything? O.o
I'll be running off my 42" led, through hdmi... if thats gonna be a problem...?
Heres the stuff -
ULT40450 ::Ultra ULT40450 Power Supply Vibration Dampener - Standard ATX, Silicone Material(0.45 lbs)
$5.99
A406-0100 ::XION XON-1000P14F ATX Power Supply - 1000W, 140mm Blue LED Fan, SLI Ready, CrossFire Ready, 6x +12V Rails(6.8 lbs)
$109.99
M17-7302 ::Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium GFC-02050 Operating System Software - 64bit, DVD(0.5 lbs)
// Heard windows 8 has problems and sucks..
So I go with Windows 7, should I go pro?
$99.99
E145-0662 ::EVGA Geforce GTX 660 Ti 02G-P4-3662-KR Video Card - 2GB, GDDR5, PCI-Express 3.0(x16), 1x Dual-link DVI-I, 1x Dual-link DVI-D, 1x DisplayPort, 1x HDMI, DirectX 11, SLI Ready, Superclocked(2.35 lbs)
$299.97
$20.00 Mail-in Rebate
T24-9901 ::Toshiba HDKPC03 DT01ACA100 1TB Hard Drive - 1TB, 7200 RPM, SATA, 3.5" (1.2 lbs)
// I want SSD drives, just so expensive I will get SSD in the future. Or is it better to go SSD? I know its way better, just not as much space in price. I'm saving well over $200 going with this.
$79.97
$10.00 Mail-in Rebate
K24-2220 ::Kingston HyperX Blu KHX1600C10D3B1K2/16G 16GB Desktop Memory Module Kit - DDR3, 1600MHz, 2x8GB, CL10, 240 Pin, DIMM(0.1 lbs)
// The mother board holds 4 slots, so I can add in future.
$69.97
M452-8420 ::MSI Z77A-G45 Intel 7 Series Motherboard - ATX, Socket H2 (LGA1155), Intel Z77 Express, 2667MHz DDR3 (O.C.), SATA III (6Gb/s), RAID, 8-CH Audio, Gigabit LAN, USB 3.0, PCIe 3.0, SLI/CrossFireX Ready(2.45 lbs)
$129.97
$10.00 Mail-in Rebate
I69-3770K ::Intel Core i7-3770K BX80667i73770K Processor - Quad Core, 8MB L3 Cache, 3.50GHz (3.90GHz Max Turbo), Socket H2 (LGA1155), 77W, Fan, Unlocked, Retail(0.85 lbs)
$367.99
C283-1197 ::Cooler Master V8 CPU Fan - Socket 1366/775/AM2/AM2+,1156, AM3 120mm Fan, Modular Aluminum Fins(3.35 lbs)
$68.99
C283-1187 ::Cooler Master RC-932-KKN5-GP HAF 932 Advance Full Tower Case - ATX, Black, SuperSpeed USB 3.0(35.35 lbs)
$172.99
I haven't built a computer in a while but here's my 2 cents.
Re power supply:
You don't need a 1000 watter. Unless you know for sure you're going to do SLI in the future. Get a smaller cheaper and save some bucks. If your supply is 1000 watts, but you only use half that you're getting terrible efficiency and wasting power like nobody's business. Your PC is probably going to use 100-200 watts when idling, but it'll draw much more than that from the wall. During full load it'll draw more (400? 500? I didnt do the math), but it won't waste as much. The closer your load is to the actual rating of the power supply, the higher the efficiency of the supply will be. This is a bit oversimplified, but it's a good rule of thumb. I'd recommend probably a 600-750 range. Although I haven't done any research on your CPU/GPU and how much they draw so you're going to want to do that. Also, don't leave your computer on when you don't use it. It's a waste of money and it doesn't make you cooler (despite what the internet thinks). Your wallet (or whomever pays for power) will thank you.
Re Windows 8:
People on the internet are idiots who are afraid of change. Don't be one of those "hop on the bandwagon" people. Windows 8 is fine. Everyone was hating Windows XP when it came out too, and now people are all "I'll never leave it". Bunch of people hated Windows 7 and it's arguably the best damned thing that ever came out of Microsoft. I wasn't crazy about the new start screen, but honestly it doesn't bother me much now. And there are plenty of other great things about 8 that are well worth it. New task manager, multimonitor taskbar, Hyper-V (for geeky developers like me), accounts syncronization and plenty of other things. Should you go pro? Probably not. Unless you really need something that pro offers that regular doesn't (like Hyper-V or Media Center). Here's a comparison: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windows_8_editions (note that RT and Enterprise are special, so ignore those two). Make sure you buy 64bit edition.
Re video card:
I always buy AMD so I have no opinion on this.
Re hard drive:
Buy an SSD. Seriously. If you only take one advice from me, take this one. Just do it. I can not stress this enough. Buy a 120(ish) GB (or 256(ish) if you feel like splurging) drive for your OS and most used programs. They're not that expensive now, you can probably get one for under $140. Get a 1TB drive for everything else. Put documents, music, video on the big drive. Put 3dmax, office, (some) games on the SSD. You will thank me later.
Re memory:
8GB is probably enough, but since you're going to be using 3dmax and the fact that memory is dirt cheap you may as well go with 16. Kingston is a good brand. I have a mix of GEIL and Kingston and have never had issues.
Re motherboard:
I have an MSI motherboard and I've been moderately happy with it. My northbridge gets really really hot, which was a flaw that later got fixed I believe. It was a combination of 1366 architecture and poor heatsink goop application though so it wasn't all MSIs fault. It still runs fine 3 years later so it wasn't all that bad anyway. Anyway. I'm sure it's fine.
Re CPU:
I'm not sure how CPU intensive 3dmax is, but if the answer is "not very" or "medium", you probably don't need an i7. An i5 will serve you just fine. For most things you will not notice a difference. Especially if you don't get an SSD. And I say this as someone who bought the very first i7 (the 920). That said if you want the 3770 (and who doesn't!), here's a tip. If you're going to overclock (my recommendation is usually to not) get the K version. Otherwise, get the cheaper regular version. If you're going to virtualize (Hyper-V, VMWare, or similar) don't get the K version as it doesn't support some key features that you'll want for that.
Re CPU fan:
I'm using the stock CPU fan on mine, but I hear they don't come with fans anymore. Can't help you here, sorry. $70 seems high, especially if you're not overclocking. I'd think a $40-50 would be just fine, but what do I know.
Re case:
You're spending $170 on a case and then say you can't afford an SSD? You need to change priorities. You'll open the case once (or maybe three) but you'll use the hard drive EVERY SINGLE DAY. Sure, it looks prettier. You can spend all that time you're waiting for things to load, looking at your pretty case. Joking aside, don't spend that much. Seriously. Yeah I'm sure it has some neat things that nice when you build, but you don't build very often. I spent $40 on my case. $40. Sure it's thin steel and cheap and doesn't look fancy. But it's sitting under the desk, who cares? My computer boots fast, loads things fast, and feels snappy. If you spend more than $80 you are (in my opinion) wasting money that could be better spent on actual hardware. It's like putting spinners and a $5000 stereo in a '87 civic.
Re mail in rebates:
Prepare for endless headaches and long waits. I'm not saying you shouldn't apply for them, but don't expect to get your money.
Re power supply:
You don't need a 1000 watter. Unless you know for sure you're going to do SLI in the future. Get a smaller cheaper and save some bucks. If your supply is 1000 watts, but you only use half that you're getting terrible efficiency and wasting power like nobody's business. Your PC is probably going to use 100-200 watts when idling, but it'll draw much more than that from the wall. During full load it'll draw more (400? 500? I didnt do the math), but it won't waste as much. The closer your load is to the actual rating of the power supply, the higher the efficiency of the supply will be. This is a bit oversimplified, but it's a good rule of thumb. I'd recommend probably a 600-750 range. Although I haven't done any research on your CPU/GPU and how much they draw so you're going to want to do that. Also, don't leave your computer on when you don't use it. It's a waste of money and it doesn't make you cooler (despite what the internet thinks). Your wallet (or whomever pays for power) will thank you.
Re Windows 8:
People on the internet are idiots who are afraid of change. Don't be one of those "hop on the bandwagon" people. Windows 8 is fine. Everyone was hating Windows XP when it came out too, and now people are all "I'll never leave it". Bunch of people hated Windows 7 and it's arguably the best damned thing that ever came out of Microsoft. I wasn't crazy about the new start screen, but honestly it doesn't bother me much now. And there are plenty of other great things about 8 that are well worth it. New task manager, multimonitor taskbar, Hyper-V (for geeky developers like me), accounts syncronization and plenty of other things. Should you go pro? Probably not. Unless you really need something that pro offers that regular doesn't (like Hyper-V or Media Center). Here's a comparison: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windows_8_editions (note that RT and Enterprise are special, so ignore those two). Make sure you buy 64bit edition.
Re video card:
I always buy AMD so I have no opinion on this.
Re hard drive:
Buy an SSD. Seriously. If you only take one advice from me, take this one. Just do it. I can not stress this enough. Buy a 120(ish) GB (or 256(ish) if you feel like splurging) drive for your OS and most used programs. They're not that expensive now, you can probably get one for under $140. Get a 1TB drive for everything else. Put documents, music, video on the big drive. Put 3dmax, office, (some) games on the SSD. You will thank me later.
Re memory:
8GB is probably enough, but since you're going to be using 3dmax and the fact that memory is dirt cheap you may as well go with 16. Kingston is a good brand. I have a mix of GEIL and Kingston and have never had issues.
Re motherboard:
I have an MSI motherboard and I've been moderately happy with it. My northbridge gets really really hot, which was a flaw that later got fixed I believe. It was a combination of 1366 architecture and poor heatsink goop application though so it wasn't all MSIs fault. It still runs fine 3 years later so it wasn't all that bad anyway. Anyway. I'm sure it's fine.
Re CPU:
I'm not sure how CPU intensive 3dmax is, but if the answer is "not very" or "medium", you probably don't need an i7. An i5 will serve you just fine. For most things you will not notice a difference. Especially if you don't get an SSD. And I say this as someone who bought the very first i7 (the 920). That said if you want the 3770 (and who doesn't!), here's a tip. If you're going to overclock (my recommendation is usually to not) get the K version. Otherwise, get the cheaper regular version. If you're going to virtualize (Hyper-V, VMWare, or similar) don't get the K version as it doesn't support some key features that you'll want for that.
Re CPU fan:
I'm using the stock CPU fan on mine, but I hear they don't come with fans anymore. Can't help you here, sorry. $70 seems high, especially if you're not overclocking. I'd think a $40-50 would be just fine, but what do I know.
Re case:
You're spending $170 on a case and then say you can't afford an SSD? You need to change priorities. You'll open the case once (or maybe three) but you'll use the hard drive EVERY SINGLE DAY. Sure, it looks prettier. You can spend all that time you're waiting for things to load, looking at your pretty case. Joking aside, don't spend that much. Seriously. Yeah I'm sure it has some neat things that nice when you build, but you don't build very often. I spent $40 on my case. $40. Sure it's thin steel and cheap and doesn't look fancy. But it's sitting under the desk, who cares? My computer boots fast, loads things fast, and feels snappy. If you spend more than $80 you are (in my opinion) wasting money that could be better spent on actual hardware. It's like putting spinners and a $5000 stereo in a '87 civic.
Re mail in rebates:
Prepare for endless headaches and long waits. I'm not saying you shouldn't apply for them, but don't expect to get your money.
Ditto on most of what Frode said.
Check out Cyberpowerpc.com. Basically you pick out all the parts and they put it together. My last computer was built by them because at the time they were having crazy sales that actually made it cheaper than shopping each part off of newegg or tigerdirect.
Check out Cyberpowerpc.com. Basically you pick out all the parts and they put it together. My last computer was built by them because at the time they were having crazy sales that actually made it cheaper than shopping each part off of newegg or tigerdirect.
Yeah, I was looking at cyberpowerpc, and was thinking of getting one. But I think they only take credit cards/money orders, and dont except paypal.
Also, me going through school the computer is part of the tuition they say... I just chose to take the 1400 and get my own comp. They were gonna give me some piece of crap, that would run 3DSMAX it's just I know, from using Lightwave, rendering takes hours. I want minutes lol.
I did think about it. I want an intel i7 but I listened to you on the "K" part you made sense.
Also I have more money then I say...
I'm just cheap. lol...
Here are changes I mades, cause I listen to Frode -
ULT40443 ::Ultra 3.5" Internal Enclosure - 2-Bay SSD/2.5" SATA 3/6Gbps, 3 Year Warranty with Registration(0.85 lbs)
// I wanna get two SSD but I can add one later. Thats why I got enclosure, sounded like a neat/good buy. And it was recommended.. meh.
$40.99
C19-8026 ::Crucial CT256M4SSD2 M4 2.5 Inch Solid State Drive - 256GB, SATAIII 6Gb/s(0.18 lbs)
Had alot of good reviews.
And I still have 1 TB drive.
$241.99
H702-2000 ::Cougar EVOLUTION Full Tower Gaming Case - ATX, Micro ATX, 6x 5.25" Ext, 4x 3.5" Int, 2x 120mm Fans, Integrated Fan Controller, 2.5" / 3.5" HDD Dock, 2x USB 3.0, 2x USB 2.0(23 lbs)
Not confirmed yet. Just cheapest of Full towers.
$89.97
ULT-LSP750 ::Ultra LSP750 750-Watt Power Supply - ATX, SATA-Ready, SLI-Ready, 135mm Fan, Lifetime Warranty w/ Registration (4.45 lbs)
Half the price. I do wanna upgrade the computer eventually this year. Maybe even march. So yeah. Still saved 60 from changing it. =P
$59.97
E145-9508 ::EVGA 132-SE-E775-K2 Intel X79 Motherboard - ATX, Socket R (LGA2011), Intel X79 Chipset, 2133MHz DDR3, SATA III 6Gb/s, RAID, 8-CH Audio, Gigabit LAN, USB 3.0, PCIe 3.0, SLI Ready(3.7 lbs)
Way more expensive, double the last motherboard. But I wanted to support i7-3820.
$275.99
I69-3820 ::Intel Core i7-3820 BX80619I73820 Processor - Quad Core, 10MB L3 Cache, 1MB L2 Cache, 3.60GHz (3.90GHz Max Turbo), Socket R (LGA2011), 130W, No Fan, Retail(0.2 lbs)
Yep. I want it.
$294.97
I know I'm going overboard.
But wait till I finish in whole. lol
I appreciate your comments, Frode.
As you can see I did listen on somethings. =P
But now I'm at $1671 in price... And I still say it's better then most of those pre-built ones lol...
I havent decided on Tower, yet, I want big.. butt... You have a point. And a shiny cheap silver case does sound smart, and looks arent everything.
$900+ in itself. lol...
And I want dual graphics cards eventually...
Lol... yeah I'm crazy.
Also, me going through school the computer is part of the tuition they say... I just chose to take the 1400 and get my own comp. They were gonna give me some piece of crap, that would run 3DSMAX it's just I know, from using Lightwave, rendering takes hours. I want minutes lol.
I did think about it. I want an intel i7 but I listened to you on the "K" part you made sense.
Also I have more money then I say...
I'm just cheap. lol...
Here are changes I mades, cause I listen to Frode -
ULT40443 ::Ultra 3.5" Internal Enclosure - 2-Bay SSD/2.5" SATA 3/6Gbps, 3 Year Warranty with Registration(0.85 lbs)
// I wanna get two SSD but I can add one later. Thats why I got enclosure, sounded like a neat/good buy. And it was recommended.. meh.
$40.99
C19-8026 ::Crucial CT256M4SSD2 M4 2.5 Inch Solid State Drive - 256GB, SATAIII 6Gb/s(0.18 lbs)
Had alot of good reviews.
And I still have 1 TB drive.
$241.99
H702-2000 ::Cougar EVOLUTION Full Tower Gaming Case - ATX, Micro ATX, 6x 5.25" Ext, 4x 3.5" Int, 2x 120mm Fans, Integrated Fan Controller, 2.5" / 3.5" HDD Dock, 2x USB 3.0, 2x USB 2.0(23 lbs)
Not confirmed yet. Just cheapest of Full towers.
$89.97
ULT-LSP750 ::Ultra LSP750 750-Watt Power Supply - ATX, SATA-Ready, SLI-Ready, 135mm Fan, Lifetime Warranty w/ Registration (4.45 lbs)
Half the price. I do wanna upgrade the computer eventually this year. Maybe even march. So yeah. Still saved 60 from changing it. =P
$59.97
E145-9508 ::EVGA 132-SE-E775-K2 Intel X79 Motherboard - ATX, Socket R (LGA2011), Intel X79 Chipset, 2133MHz DDR3, SATA III 6Gb/s, RAID, 8-CH Audio, Gigabit LAN, USB 3.0, PCIe 3.0, SLI Ready(3.7 lbs)
Way more expensive, double the last motherboard. But I wanted to support i7-3820.
$275.99
I69-3820 ::Intel Core i7-3820 BX80619I73820 Processor - Quad Core, 10MB L3 Cache, 1MB L2 Cache, 3.60GHz (3.90GHz Max Turbo), Socket R (LGA2011), 130W, No Fan, Retail(0.2 lbs)
Yep. I want it.
$294.97
I know I'm going overboard.
But wait till I finish in whole. lol
I appreciate your comments, Frode.
As you can see I did listen on somethings. =P
But now I'm at $1671 in price... And I still say it's better then most of those pre-built ones lol...
I havent decided on Tower, yet, I want big.. butt... You have a point. And a shiny cheap silver case does sound smart, and looks arent everything.
[Added at 12/04/2012 16:20:59 by Superman]
Processor, motherboard, and graphics card...$900+ in itself. lol...
And I want dual graphics cards eventually...
Lol... yeah I'm crazy.
Here's my two cents about the whole thing.
I haven't used Windows 8 yet, but obviously Windows 7 is good. If it were me I would stick with Windows 7, but to future proof yourself, you may want to go with 8.
If you need to save some money, don't get the SSD, but if you need that extra preformance, many people build with a 1TB sata and a smaller SSD maybe 120GB - 240GB.
Here is a sample build I quickly did:
------------------------------------
Case - Corsair Carbide Series 400R Graphite grey and black Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Gaming Case - $109.99
Mobo - ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard - #239.99
CPU - Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 BX80637I73770K - $329.99
GPU - EVGA 02G-P4-3660-KR GeForce GTX 660 Ti 2GB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card - 299.99
PSU - CORSAIR HX Series HX750 750W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC ... - 149.99
HDD - Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 ST31500341AS 1.5TB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive - $79.99
SSD - Kingston HyperX 3K SH103S3/120G 2.5" 120GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) (Stand-Alone Drive) - $104.99
Memory - G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) Desktop Memory Model F3-14900CL10D-16GBXL - $79.49
Heatsink - COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2 Continuous Direct Contact 120mm Sleeve CPU Cooler Compatible with latest Intel ... - $34.99
OS - Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM - $99.99
Total: $1529 before tax and shipping
http://i1288.photobucket.com/albums/b484/Sidzzzzz/scottbuild.png
-------------------------------------------------
Basically, your build is good, the processor is great pick, video card is a pretty good bang for the buck maybe the sweetspot of preformance and affordability for them, I would agree on the PSU and case with serv, inless you will add another GPU for sli in the future, the two things I don't know about would be the mobo and HDD, asus is kinda the king of mobo's, and generally enthusiasts stick with WD or seagate for an HDD. One thing I will say is that the heatsink I listed is generally considered the best for it's money until you get $70 plus.... One more thing, I am a sucker for corsair products and if you don't like the budget case I offered, please take a look at some of their other ones. One thing you will not be able to see online is how good of quality they are compared to other cases. The also have one of the better builds for cable manageability.
Good luck on the build!
I haven't used Windows 8 yet, but obviously Windows 7 is good. If it were me I would stick with Windows 7, but to future proof yourself, you may want to go with 8.
If you need to save some money, don't get the SSD, but if you need that extra preformance, many people build with a 1TB sata and a smaller SSD maybe 120GB - 240GB.
Here is a sample build I quickly did:
------------------------------------
Case - Corsair Carbide Series 400R Graphite grey and black Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Gaming Case - $109.99
Mobo - ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard - #239.99
CPU - Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 BX80637I73770K - $329.99
GPU - EVGA 02G-P4-3660-KR GeForce GTX 660 Ti 2GB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card - 299.99
PSU - CORSAIR HX Series HX750 750W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC ... - 149.99
HDD - Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 ST31500341AS 1.5TB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive - $79.99
SSD - Kingston HyperX 3K SH103S3/120G 2.5" 120GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) (Stand-Alone Drive) - $104.99
Memory - G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) Desktop Memory Model F3-14900CL10D-16GBXL - $79.49
Heatsink - COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2 Continuous Direct Contact 120mm Sleeve CPU Cooler Compatible with latest Intel ... - $34.99
OS - Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM - $99.99
Total: $1529 before tax and shipping
http://i1288.photobucket.com/albums/b484/Sidzzzzz/scottbuild.png
-------------------------------------------------
Basically, your build is good, the processor is great pick, video card is a pretty good bang for the buck maybe the sweetspot of preformance and affordability for them, I would agree on the PSU and case with serv, inless you will add another GPU for sli in the future, the two things I don't know about would be the mobo and HDD, asus is kinda the king of mobo's, and generally enthusiasts stick with WD or seagate for an HDD. One thing I will say is that the heatsink I listed is generally considered the best for it's money until you get $70 plus.... One more thing, I am a sucker for corsair products and if you don't like the budget case I offered, please take a look at some of their other ones. One thing you will not be able to see online is how good of quality they are compared to other cases. The also have one of the better builds for cable manageability.
Good luck on the build!
I have a 120gb SSD and a 1TB hard drive, but I find myself wishing I had gone with the 240 SSD. Its constantly full (too many games).
If you have the cash, go 240.
If you have the cash, go 240.
Thanks, Trev.
I'll look into those cases.
I still have to wait on my loan. O.o
They messed up on paperwork, so I wont start till seventeeth, and money comes in before then.
I will however, keep upgrading and changing it. To other peoples suggestions. Try to get the best.
I like Corsair aswell. =P
Speed! ^_^
Had good reviews.
Just your PSU is like triple the price of mine, and I went more on SSD. But around the same price, after taxes and shipping.
Should I go Corsair for the PSU, or keep the cheapy...? lol Hundred dollars. I want to. lol
I'll look into those cases.
I still have to wait on my loan. O.o
They messed up on paperwork, so I wont start till seventeeth, and money comes in before then.
I will however, keep upgrading and changing it. To other peoples suggestions. Try to get the best.
I like Corsair aswell. =P
[Added at 12/04/2012 16:44:56 by Superman]
Danny, I got 256gb one in there lol...Speed! ^_^
[Added at 12/04/2012 16:46:15 by Superman]
C19-8026 ::Crucial CT256M4SSD2 M4 2.5 Inch Solid State Drive - 256GB, SATAIII 6Gb/s(0.18 lbs)Had good reviews.
[Added at 12/04/2012 16:54:10 by Superman]
Yeah me and your comp details are pretty close, trev.Just your PSU is like triple the price of mine, and I went more on SSD. But around the same price, after taxes and shipping.
Should I go Corsair for the PSU, or keep the cheapy...? lol Hundred dollars. I want to. lol
[Added at 12/04/2012 16:58:46 by Superman]
Yeah, Corsair does have some nice steel and graphite cases. I wouldnt doubt its worth buying. And they are all at a good price.
Yeah the crucial drives are supposed to be pretty good grade. I was actually going a bit over the edge with that PSU. It was the one thing I was going to down grade. I would say around 100 max would be the sweet spot for a decent 750w PSU.
I built my own computer last summer. Originally, I was going to go for an ivy bridge i7, but I decided to go a step down in everything to juggle expenses of that with everything else(payed off all my old loans).
Here's my build:
Case: Zalman Z11 Plus
Mobo: ASUS P8Z68-V PRO
CPU: ivy bridge i5 3570
HDD: 1TB Seagate
PSU: 600 Cooler Master
RAM: Corsair 2x4gb 1600
GPU: Asus Radeon 6850
OS: Win 7
------
It cost me about 1200
Got a 22" Samsung LED, Naos gaming mouse and razer keyboard then it came to about 1500. Does me good enough, won't be running any rendering so yeah.
I built my own computer last summer. Originally, I was going to go for an ivy bridge i7, but I decided to go a step down in everything to juggle expenses of that with everything else(payed off all my old loans).
Here's my build:
Case: Zalman Z11 Plus
Mobo: ASUS P8Z68-V PRO
CPU: ivy bridge i5 3570
HDD: 1TB Seagate
PSU: 600 Cooler Master
RAM: Corsair 2x4gb 1600
GPU: Asus Radeon 6850
OS: Win 7
------
It cost me about 1200
Got a 22" Samsung LED, Naos gaming mouse and razer keyboard then it came to about 1500. Does me good enough, won't be running any rendering so yeah.
[Added at 12/04/2012 18:51:09 by SilverSurfer]
Can play any game out there. [Added at 12/04/2012 18:52:29 by SilverSurfer]
After xmas I will probably upgrade it a bit.[Added at 12/04/2012 18:54:27 by SilverSurfer]
One other thing is I haven't hooked up my main computer to a bigger screen but I do connect my laptop to our 47" led via hdmi with no problems.
Here is my build:
http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=25301507
I assembled this on halloween, and I like it. Since I bought it, I've ordered an extra 8GB of RAM, which just came in today.
I highly recommend getting a slightly larger SSD, with roughly 500mb read/write speed. You will love it.
I did get the 3570k Ivy Bridge i5, love it.
If you will be doing GPU heavy tasks, and gaming, definitely go as big as you can, and make sure the PSU is enough to power your new toy :)
To make sure your rendering speed is as quick as possible, try not to skimp on any major part, it's all about speed, so find what the minimum hardware required to accomplish what you wish, and build something comparable
HUGE TIP: the members of the eggxpert.com forums and chat are happy to help on any questions and compatibility checks on your build. They even give awesome suggestions and better priced items ;)
http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=25301507
I assembled this on halloween, and I like it. Since I bought it, I've ordered an extra 8GB of RAM, which just came in today.
I highly recommend getting a slightly larger SSD, with roughly 500mb read/write speed. You will love it.
I did get the 3570k Ivy Bridge i5, love it.
If you will be doing GPU heavy tasks, and gaming, definitely go as big as you can, and make sure the PSU is enough to power your new toy :)
To make sure your rendering speed is as quick as possible, try not to skimp on any major part, it's all about speed, so find what the minimum hardware required to accomplish what you wish, and build something comparable
HUGE TIP: the members of the eggxpert.com forums and chat are happy to help on any questions and compatibility checks on your build. They even give awesome suggestions and better priced items ;)
I'm bad... I dont even wanna change it.
Canada
https://secure.newegg.ca/WishList/MySavedWishDetail.aspx?ID=16341954
US
https://secure.newegg.com/WishList/MySavedWishDetail.aspx?ID=16341954
Just looks perfect. lol...
Though more SSD... I want a TB of SSD. Eventually.
I'll probably change it. Expensive...
lol
Canada
https://secure.newegg.ca/WishList/MySavedWishDetail.aspx?ID=16341954
US
https://secure.newegg.com/WishList/MySavedWishDetail.aspx?ID=16341954
Just looks perfect. lol...
Though more SSD... I want a TB of SSD. Eventually.
I'll probably change it. Expensive...
lol
I would advice against going for the 3820 if it's going to cost you more.
http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/523?vs=551
The 3770 has it beat in most areas except for 3dsmax. Which is what you're using it for I suppose, but the performance gains are very small. You're not getting very good bang for your buck. I would stick to the 3770 and a cheaper motherboard. The 3770 is also Ivy Bridge and 22nm while the 3820 is Sandy Bridge and 32nm. 3770 should run cooler for the same performance (and save you some power as well).
As for the case, again I think above $80 is far too much to pay. I just feel like paying that much for convenience of something you'll do once (the actual build) isn't worth it when you can put the money into hardware (or beer!). Take a look at the Antec Three Hundred. It's supposed to be a great case and it's selling for $45 on Newegg (Canada) right now. Regular is like $70.
Re SSD:
I forgot to mention this before, and this is purely my personal opinion, but I would stick to Samsung/Intel/Kingston for drives. I personally have a Sandisk and a budget Kingston and they're fine. But I had a 256GB Curcial M4 through work and my laptop had all sorts of reading issues and constant blue screens. Ran drive tests and it was f'd up. We sent it back to Crucial and received a refurbished drive back and same deal. Once I switched back to the Kingston it's been smooth sailing. Apparently this is a known issue with Crucial, albeit it happens very very rarely. It did taint my image of them though (mostly because we had two drives that were failing). I know several people who have M4s and have been happy with them though, so, again, this is purely personal opinion. Just don't buy OCZ.
Re HDD:
As been mentioned WD or Seagate is your best bet. I'm partial to WD (and for storage drives I get the green ones) but that's just me.
Re Windows 7/8:
Do yourself a favor and get 8, unless it's incompatible with 3dsmax (which it shouldn't be). You'll just have to update down the road once all the haters quiet down so you may as well save yourself the money and buy it now. Trust me, you'll be fine.
I couldn't view all the newegg wishlists for some reason (they came up blank), but SilverSurfers build looks pretty darned good to me. I'd pick a different case, drop the 3770k for a 3770 and get Win8, but that's really just nitpicking. That's a quality build for a good price and it'll serve you for years.
Computers now are so ridiculously good that unless you're a graphics whore and you want bragging rights you your computer will last you for years. I have a i7-920 computer I built 3-4 years ago and it's still going strong. I upgraded to SSD last year which was great, and upped to 18GB of RAM from 6 because I run a lot of virtual machines (so otherwise a pointless upgrade) but other than that I haven't done anything to it. My 4850 video card still plays games just fine (even though i don't play much anymore). 3-4 years from now, that computer will still serve you well.
http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/523?vs=551
The 3770 has it beat in most areas except for 3dsmax. Which is what you're using it for I suppose, but the performance gains are very small. You're not getting very good bang for your buck. I would stick to the 3770 and a cheaper motherboard. The 3770 is also Ivy Bridge and 22nm while the 3820 is Sandy Bridge and 32nm. 3770 should run cooler for the same performance (and save you some power as well).
As for the case, again I think above $80 is far too much to pay. I just feel like paying that much for convenience of something you'll do once (the actual build) isn't worth it when you can put the money into hardware (or beer!). Take a look at the Antec Three Hundred. It's supposed to be a great case and it's selling for $45 on Newegg (Canada) right now. Regular is like $70.
Re SSD:
I forgot to mention this before, and this is purely my personal opinion, but I would stick to Samsung/Intel/Kingston for drives. I personally have a Sandisk and a budget Kingston and they're fine. But I had a 256GB Curcial M4 through work and my laptop had all sorts of reading issues and constant blue screens. Ran drive tests and it was f'd up. We sent it back to Crucial and received a refurbished drive back and same deal. Once I switched back to the Kingston it's been smooth sailing. Apparently this is a known issue with Crucial, albeit it happens very very rarely. It did taint my image of them though (mostly because we had two drives that were failing). I know several people who have M4s and have been happy with them though, so, again, this is purely personal opinion. Just don't buy OCZ.
Re HDD:
As been mentioned WD or Seagate is your best bet. I'm partial to WD (and for storage drives I get the green ones) but that's just me.
Re Windows 7/8:
Do yourself a favor and get 8, unless it's incompatible with 3dsmax (which it shouldn't be). You'll just have to update down the road once all the haters quiet down so you may as well save yourself the money and buy it now. Trust me, you'll be fine.
I couldn't view all the newegg wishlists for some reason (they came up blank), but SilverSurfers build looks pretty darned good to me. I'd pick a different case, drop the 3770k for a 3770 and get Win8, but that's really just nitpicking. That's a quality build for a good price and it'll serve you for years.
Computers now are so ridiculously good that unless you're a graphics whore and you want bragging rights you your computer will last you for years. I have a i7-920 computer I built 3-4 years ago and it's still going strong. I upgraded to SSD last year which was great, and upped to 18GB of RAM from 6 because I run a lot of virtual machines (so otherwise a pointless upgrade) but other than that I haven't done anything to it. My 4850 video card still plays games just fine (even though i don't play much anymore). 3-4 years from now, that computer will still serve you well.
Yeah at the end of the day I would have probably changed a few things on that sample build too. In less the corsair case went on sale under $100(which it occasionally does) I would just get a different case under $80. I would drop the expensive PSU and get something $70-100. Most of the brands that sell these PSU's buy them from the same source(like seasonic) and rebrand them with cool names and a paint job. I may actually drop the sabertooth mobo too as it's more of just something that I like the look of(but it does have super good reviews as well).
Thanks, Frode.
But you're mistaken... 3770 beats it at everything including 3DSMAX.. Show it at a render time in seconds lower is better rating. So 3770 is far superior from what I can tell.
I will go with this. Sounds far superior. Beats it at everything on that list. Even when you tried to give 3820 alittle credit, it still wasnt as good lol.
And yeah this way I can get a cheaper motherboard.
I'm going to look into better SSD.
And cases.
But you're mistaken... 3770 beats it at everything including 3DSMAX.. Show it at a render time in seconds lower is better rating. So 3770 is far superior from what I can tell.
I will go with this. Sounds far superior. Beats it at everything on that list. Even when you tried to give 3820 alittle credit, it still wasnt as good lol.
And yeah this way I can get a cheaper motherboard.
I'm going to look into better SSD.
And cases.
Huh, you're right. I noticed some of them were "lower is better" but I guess I brainfarted on the 3dsmax ones. Good thing I linked to my source.
Sometimes being wrong is a good thing! :D
Sometimes being wrong is a good thing! :D
Hey Scott; have you heard of NCIX? It's a store like Newegg and tigerdirect but that actually has physical locations in Vancouver. They basically have the same kind of deals like Newegg, and here in Van, more people order from them than Newegg etc. Just the advantage of being able to go into the store and see some of the products is nice. I don't think they have any stores around Cal, but sometimes they have some good deals... They also do price matching so matching a price and shipping costs may be cheaper through them since they are canadian? Not sure though.
Hey, check this case out: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133206 Things a beast.
Hey, check this case out: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133206 Things a beast.
Here is the one I built earlier this year
1 x Case (NZXT Lexa-S Gaming Case - Black w/ Blue Light))
1 x Case Lighting (Cold Cathode Neon Light - Blue))
1 x Processor (AMD FX-4100 CPU (4x 3.60GHz/4MB L2 Cache)))
1 x Processor Cooling (Liquid CPU Cooling System [AMD] - Standard 120mm Fan))
1 x Memory (16 GB [8 GB X2] DDR3-1600 Memory Module - Corsair or Major Brand)
1 x Video Card (AMD Radeon HD 6770 - 2GB - CrossFire Mode (Dual Cards)))
1 x Motherboard (ASUS M5A97 -- AMD 970))
1 x Motherboard USB / SATA Interface (Motherboard default USB / SATA Interface))
1 x Power Supply (1000 Watt - Standard))
1 x Primary Hard Drive (1 TB HARD DRIVE -- 32M Cache, 7200 RPM, 6.0Gb/s - Single Drive))
1 x Optical Drive ([12X Blu-Ray] LG BLU-RAY Re-Writer, DVD±R/±RW Burner Combo Drive - Blue))
1 x 2nd Optical Drive (24X Dual Format/Double Layer DVD±R/±RW + CD-R/RW Drive - Blue))
1 x Flash Media Reader / Writer (12-In-1 Internal Flash Media Card Reader/Writer - Blue))
1 x Sound Card (3D Premium Surround Sound Onboard))
1 x Network Card (Onboard LAN Network (Gb or 10/100)))
1 x Operating System (Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium + Office Starter 2010 (Includes basic versions of Word and Excel) - 64-Bit))
1 x Mouse (Razer DeathAdder High Precision Optical Gaming Mouse))
1 x Monitor (24" LED 1920x1080 -- Sceptre E246W-1080P (23.6 viewable)
I built this for the kids, so I did not build it the way I was planning, for cost effectiveness.
1 x Case (NZXT Lexa-S Gaming Case - Black w/ Blue Light))
1 x Case Lighting (Cold Cathode Neon Light - Blue))
1 x Processor (AMD FX-4100 CPU (4x 3.60GHz/4MB L2 Cache)))
1 x Processor Cooling (Liquid CPU Cooling System [AMD] - Standard 120mm Fan))
1 x Memory (16 GB [8 GB X2] DDR3-1600 Memory Module - Corsair or Major Brand)
1 x Video Card (AMD Radeon HD 6770 - 2GB - CrossFire Mode (Dual Cards)))
1 x Motherboard (ASUS M5A97 -- AMD 970))
1 x Motherboard USB / SATA Interface (Motherboard default USB / SATA Interface))
1 x Power Supply (1000 Watt - Standard))
1 x Primary Hard Drive (1 TB HARD DRIVE -- 32M Cache, 7200 RPM, 6.0Gb/s - Single Drive))
1 x Optical Drive ([12X Blu-Ray] LG BLU-RAY Re-Writer, DVD±R/±RW Burner Combo Drive - Blue))
1 x 2nd Optical Drive (24X Dual Format/Double Layer DVD±R/±RW + CD-R/RW Drive - Blue))
1 x Flash Media Reader / Writer (12-In-1 Internal Flash Media Card Reader/Writer - Blue))
1 x Sound Card (3D Premium Surround Sound Onboard))
1 x Network Card (Onboard LAN Network (Gb or 10/100)))
1 x Operating System (Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium + Office Starter 2010 (Includes basic versions of Word and Excel) - 64-Bit))
1 x Mouse (Razer DeathAdder High Precision Optical Gaming Mouse))
1 x Monitor (24" LED 1920x1080 -- Sceptre E246W-1080P (23.6 viewable)
I built this for the kids, so I did not build it the way I was planning, for cost effectiveness.
NZXT has some pretty good quality cases too. One of the more popular NZXT cases is obviously the Phantom and is worth the money.
[Added at 12/12/2012 17:19:53 by SilverSurfer]
Probably one of the best cases made too
Found alot of the parts at computer rack web site who are locally in calgary. Think I'm saving by going through these guys. They got it all it seems.
My build:
cpu - 1 Idaho Potato
cpu - 1 Idaho Potato
omg Tina, thats is a 1337 build!
where did you buy it????
where did you buy it????
To comment on that bit about the 3770 vs the 3820: The 3820 is in my opinion maybe even a better choice. It offers pretty close to the same performance and allows you to be more future-proof as it uses the new 2011 socket. It will allow you to upgrade your cpu in the future to a more powerful one when the next ivy bridge-e's and other cpu's hit the market. Or just go with the 3770 to squeeze that extra small bit out.